Opening dates were pushed back, and only a handful of lifts operated to serve a handful of runs at a handful of resorts. World Cup events from Austria to France were scratched. As of Dec. 9, St. Moritz, Switerland had just six lifts of 72 accessing a paltry half-dozen runs. Across the border in Livigno, Italy, three of 33 lifts and two slim ribbons of snow were open. It was so pathetic that skiing was free. Gigantic St. Anton, Austria, had no lifts running at all. There was some weekend snow, improving things somewhat. According to today's snow reports, St. Anton is running five out of 86 lifts, St. Moritz has opened eight of 86 runs, and Livigno has 11 lifts operating. A couple of good storms would make conditions immeasurably better, but the weather forecast for the rest of the week is "sunny" and "fairly sunny." Still, if you have non-cancellable reservations, there are worse places to be than the Alps. The hotels are great, the food is fabulous, non-ski options abound (especially in larger resorts) and ambience and scenery can't be beat. If the situation improves, you might even be able to snare an attractive last-minute deal.