Decent advice. One thing to remember is that although you may be a beginner, that doesn't mean you'll stay at that level for long. A good choice for those that are athletic and or aggressive might be a 'performance' ski. Beginner skis although inexpensive and lightweight will limit you after you have moved on to more difficult terrain. A performance ski will not limit you that much in the early days of your skiing career and may in fact carry you through during the intermediate stages.
Hmmm... Good points but after teaching skiing for a number of years, I can tell you that a ski that is too stiff or too long for someone who is just beginning. Most of us who teach skiing have continually gone shorter and shorter over the years. I now use a ski that is over 40cm shorter than what I learned on over 40 years ago.
OK... wait a minute. My average length ski is the same length I started on- nearly forty years ago. Big difference here is that I was 40 centimeters shorter! If this indeed is your first alpine ski purchase- and we can assume you've moved past the first few days on skis, your selection will be based on who you are, where you ski, and your ambition. If you follow the trend to the terrain park, then get some twin tips. Most of these will get you around the mountain pretty well. However if your desire is carve clean turns on all terrain, I would steer clear of MOST twin tip skis. The majority have a flex pattern and balance point meant to acommodate freestyle (backwards) techniques. There are some TT models that are geared towards big mountain skiing, but most are beefy, race like constructions built for athletic freeskiers. That said (because most shops are going to try to sell you a twin tip ski) you have many good all-mountain and performance skis available too you. If the conditions where you ski are generally packed, firm, hard, and/or crowded- you should choose skis that are not too wide. The waist widths falling between say 65mm to 80mm. Its usually marked on the ski. If you ski more off piste, choose skis from a waist width mid 70mm or higher. These skis will work great in all conditions and help you develope your skills at the same time. Avoid skis that are super short with radical sidecuts. Although there are some benefits to the lessons they have to offer, they will inevitably hold your skiing back. Straighter skis are easier to control. Also avoid super FAT skis. If you ski that much powder (and its lovely wind blown counterpart) you already have a pair. Rent FAT skis when the snow is piling up faster than the locals can ski it off. Beginners- don't buy cheap package skis. Put your money into boots. Buy them from someone that knows how to fit them correctly- not the local sporting goods outlet. Get skis thru your ski school offerings. Last bit of advice: all those racers are dumping their race stock skis (the real deal) at the local swap. Are they tough to handle? Yes- especially if your technique has a nasty flaw, but if you can figure them out you'll never find a better ride on hard snow. Good luck at the swap everyone.
I am also a ski instructor, and I have always suggested to the beginners to aim a little shorter/softer until they're intermediates, when then start buying skis they can "grow" into. Something a little stiffer and sportier to drive them to doing better.
I love my twin tip skis. They are great for all-around skiing. The only trade-offs, are they are a little slower than racing skis, and some twin tips don't fit in ski racks...
Good points, thank you all for your comments. Ski instructors, thanks for shedding some light that people can use. I skied for 10 years, quit for 18, and now am back, going on year 3. Equipment changed a lot and led me to a conclusion I pass on to younger skiers. Start with quality BEGINNER equipment. As your skill improves thru practice and lessons, plan to change your equipment. Skiing is not a poor mans sport and never will be. As you progress, plan to invest in equipment that enhances your area of interest (TT, racing, telemark, all mountain, etc). Plan to spend money, its part of the game and part of the fun as we improve in the sport. Speaking of that, I have to go and "talk" my wife into considering a drop in cash for new equipment. The time has come!!
Lots of good advice, especially schlikkerslider. One additional thing to keep in mind is height and weight should play a HUGE role in your purchase for larger, heavier people. I'm 6'6", 255, 47, athletic and aggressive. I just got decent at skiing after 40, so the progression from being very nervous on blue groomers to 6+ hours in a row on is very fresh in my mind.
Rule of thumb: if you're over 180/190 and very athletic you need to buy a full level higher performance gear than your skiing ability. If you're over 220 you want to start looking primarily at the reviews for skis that say "eat your Wheaties" and "a handful!". You also need to add at least 10-15 underfoot to get the same performance and float in various conditions.
If you start out on a regular beginner package at my height and weight you'll have trouble learning the most basic turning and speed control. Even on the bunny hill those rental/beginner skis won't hold an edge for me. I only realized it when a buddy sold me his old IM75's. I could finally use the techniques he kept shouting at me! Even the 185 Salomon Pilot 10's I was on, a solid intermediate "all mountain" at the time, was way too soft for my size on blue groomers.
I bought my first pair, twin tip 07-08 silencers and i loved them from the first day i used them. They are an all mountains ski so i can take them in the park and in the powder. They are fairly affordable and have been a good ski for me, the only thing is that they chip easier if your real concerned about cosmetics than don't get them,
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have a few skis for different conditions! Simple.
Rule of thumb: if you're over 180/190 and very athletic you need to buy a full level higher performance gear than your skiing ability. If you're over 220 you want to start looking primarily at the reviews for skis that say "eat your Wheaties" and "a handful!". You also need to add at least 10-15 underfoot to get the same performance and float in various conditions.
If you start out on a regular beginner package at my height and weight you'll have trouble learning the most basic turning and speed control. Even on the bunny hill those rental/beginner skis won't hold an edge for me. I only realized it when a buddy sold me his old IM75's. I could finally use the techniques he kept shouting at me! Even the 185 Salomon Pilot 10's I was on, a solid intermediate "all mountain" at the time, was way too soft for my size on blue groomers.