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"No-sing ees forbeeden!" If you're going to ski with a guide, that's the kind of thing you want to hear from him. Sylvan is a professional guide and he led Bark Boy and Funky Pierre (and five others) on several runs at Grand Montets today. His lineage traces to the second ever ascent of Mt. Blanc in 1786, and he counts in a long line of high mountain guides. Sylvan likes to ski fast. Tres bien!

This time we could see. This time we could also go to the top of the big tram. Sylvan led us over a glacier and through 50 cm of new snow that built up over the last couple days when the upper lift was closed. Everywhere we looked from the top run we were hit in the face with some of the most amazing scenery on the planet. The mile long powder field was kind of cool too. The big glacier is called Argentiere, but there must have been about a dozen others we could see on the descent. You will notice in several photos major ice formations crawling over mountain tops, through valleys and down couloirs--all glacier formations. Regrettably, Sylvan informed us that this glacier has been retreating dramatically in recent years. Indeed, a 1914 photo of the Argentiere glacier had in extending into the village of Argentiere. Today it has retreated 500 m up the massif.

We enjoyed today tremendously, physically and spiritually. So much so that once again we were scooted off the mountain by ski patrol at 4:45 pm while reclining next to a glacial formation, agape. Our guided group disbanded at 3 pm, with all but us tired, sore or in need of drink; a perfect opportunity for us to take in another 6,600 vertical foot run. So 4 pm found us again on the 3275 m summit, alone in a 1000 acre snow field of powder. Funky Pierre's remark stuck: "Whosever's idea this was, it was great. This place is unbelievable. Vail can't touch it in magnitude." Wow wow wow. Tomorrow we meet Sylvan again for the guided only area of Le Valee Blanche, the Aiguille de Midi spire, and Le Mer de Glace glacier. Surreal.

We had lunch for the second day in a row at the quaint Lognon Chalet. Unlike yesterday, however, we didn't get the complimentary shot upon departue. We had to make do with the van rouge.

Sorry for the lack of jokes; it's hard to be funny with your lower jaw aflop. Also, sorry about the large number of pictures, but we've lost all discretion.

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