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Oh Canada

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By Roger Leo on February 12, 2007

Owl's Head looms over Lake Memphremagog: Good snow, reasonable rates and an exotic flavor.

First-ever trip to ski in Quebec found good snow, cold weather, great food and reasonable rates.
This nifty mountain has 1,772 feet of vertical, 44 trails, eight lifts (three of them high-speed quads) and a greater sense of remoteness than at more southerly areas in the Northeast.
Lifts opened at 8:30 a.m Adult lift tickets cost $37, except on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, when they are $15.
Terrain is 30 percent beginner, 40 percent intermediate, 30 percent expert.
From the mix of skiers, the locals have deemed it a family mountain.
Lodging at the mountain is limited, and includes 20 rooms at the Auberge Owl's Head and a number of one-, two- and three-bedroom units at the Apartment/Hotel, which is quite cosy, and offers two lifts for ski-in, ski-out. Important tip: Stop in Mansonville, where there are several nice places to stock up on food and drink, including a grocery store and a bakery/bistro.
This latter alone is worth a trip to Owl's Head. It is called Owl's Bread Boulangerie, and served one of the best lunches I have ever had the pleasure of eating. If you're into ham, try Le croque monsieur, a grilled ham and gruyere sandwich, with delightful salad.
The dining room at the Chalet, which is a combo ski lodge, hostel and restaurant, serves excellent food as well. It also has a cafeteria for breakfast and lunch.
Gotta say that Expedia dropped the ball - again. It led me up I-91 to Exit 27 at Newport, Vt., then up the west side of Lake Memphremagog on a road that got smaller and smaller, turned to gravel, and ended at a barred gate with warning signs in English and French that threatened dire consequences to all who dared pass. Expedia did this to me once before, on a trip to Montreal, where the route bypassed 10 - the real way into the heart of the city - and led off into vast decaying neighborhoods far from anywhere. Once bitten, twice shy, never again will Expedia be my guide.
The Owl's Head Web site has clear, simple and accurate directions on how to get to the mountain.

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